LINEN FIBERS:
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POSTING DATE: 29th
JANUARY 2014
FLAX AND LINEN
FLAX: CROP AND CULTIVATION
FLAX: SEEDS “LINSEEDS”
FLAX: CROP IN METRIC TONS IN WORLDS
FLAX: CROP FOR TEXTILE, PAPER, FOOD AND MEDICINE
FLAX: CROP HARVESTING METHODS
FLAX: PREPARATION FOR SPINNING
FLAX LINEN AND FABRIC DESIGNING
FLAX TO LINEN
Flax is a Fibre of Textile
and Paper making, good for Medicine and Food Industry too. Flax cultivation defines
truly and historically for cooler regions of the World. If trying to cultivate
in little hotter or in little hot humid area, then flax crop will grow, but not
fullest its normal fibre length which is normally 16 to 25 inch and fibre
strength will reduce very low for flax fibres yarn wet spinning, but below 10
tow dry spinning linen count can be made out of this flax fibres with less
strength.
Best Flax Fibres grows in
cooler place with very little moisture and humid atmosphere farmland in the
world and with this type of flax fibre, one can wet spines above 70s lea linen single
count with fullest strength. If one plies 4 time, then this 70s lea single
linen count strength becomes more than metal fibres, that is why flax/linen
yarn breaking strength is highest in comparisons to all textile fibers at
presents, and it will remain till then, when new textile natural fibre discover
with better qualities than flax from this spreads out bounteous earth paradise
by The Almighty God, which is useful in textile or same type of purpose in
appropriate industry in the world.
Flax plant grows like a singular
unit cluster of many protected covers in and out to built strength for its
fibres plant, which is Bast [bast kind of bass] - Bark - Stalks - stem type outer
leaf fibre like Jute and Ramie and its seed are known as linseed and its oil is
commonly use in medicines, fine arts, varnish, linoleum, printing ink and many other
uses in our human society today.
Flax Fibre has its own
natural ups and downs that gives little variation in flax yarn like thin and
thick places in between smooth surface, which is natural and spacing in between
with smooth surface ups and downs is at random, as like SLUB but very, verily
smooth in overall its continuous length, due to this quality of flax fibre in
weaving textile surface is not fully flat and that is why is not sticky to the
human skin, crispy and naturally lustrous due to un even textile surface from
there light reflect more.
Flax fibres has to be
segregate before it’s any use as above said mention because flax fibres are
vegetable fibre which grows like a singular unit cluster of many different
protected cover to built strength for its fibres plant, like bast [bass], bark,
stalks, stem type leaf fibres, which naturally grows in single shrub with five
leaf, as like Indian elephant grass, with many thick and thin variation in
plant growth. That means after segregation fineness of the flax fibres from
coarser fibres with better length is very good for finest lea linen count wet
spinning, this manual segregation of flax fibres for fine lea count spinning, gives
better earning as like wool trade where Sheep/Lame Wool while clipping they segregate, systematically for better worsted yarn spinning because
different body parts wool gives different micron, which means fineness of the
fibre is higher side in micron, that gives in spinning fine worsted count
[higher number of count] for light weight worsted fabric and same style is for
flax, these all segregation are important and firstly is done while collecting
the crop and again before taking in for actual flax yarn spinning, which helps
in production efficiency and quality of textile materials.
FLAX CROP PROUCTION WORLD WIDE:
Flax crop for industry
purpose grows in part of Egypt Flax/Linen
Linseed crop production approximately metric tons is 175000, China
Flax/Linen Linseed crop production approximately metric tons is 350000, Georgia
Flax/Linen Linseed crop production approximately
metric tons is 35000, North America USA Flax/Linen Linseed crop production approximately metric
tons is 80000, Belgium Flax/Linen
Linseed crop production approximately metric tons is 70000, Russia
Flax/Linen Linseed crop production
approximately metric tons is235000, United Kingdom UK Flax/Linen Linseed crop production approximately metric
tons is 75000, Ethiopia Flax/Linen
Linseed crop production approximately metric tons is 70000, Kazakhstan
Flax/Linen Linseed crop production
approximately metric tons is 65000, Ukraine Flax/Linen Linseed crop production approximately metric
tons is 52000, Argentina Flax/Linen
Linseed crop production approximately metric tons is 34000, Canada
Flax/Linen Linseed crop production
approximately metric tons is 400000, New Zealand Flax/Linen in farming is known
with different name and there Linseed crop production approximately metric tons
is 40000, before partition of India in along with Northern Hills was higher
than present situation of Flax/Linen
Linseed crop production approximately metric tons is 160000 and other
part of Europe and world, which is not mention above, there Flax/Linen Linseed crop production approximately metric
tons is 100000, approximately today in beginning of year JANUARY 2014.
FLAX LINEN FIBRES AND FABRIC HISTORY:
Flax Linen Fabric is not
new, is oldest textile and paper industry fibre. Historically found in
Dzudzuana cave dyed flax fibres of prehistoric Georgia dated 30000 years ago
and ancient Egyptian times, for example in Egypt they covered around mummies
linen un degummed fabric, in Korea still is used to cover human body for its
last rituals, because with time or in earth does not get destroy easily and insect
moths and white ants avoid eating due to gums and partly absorbed moisture from
nature to maintain its gum strength, Artist use Linen canvas without degummed.
FLAX YARN OTHER USAGE HISTORICALLY:
Flax yarn was used before
1980s for football, volleyball, basketball, cricket ball, hockey ball, shoes,
luggage bags, pocket purse, lady purse, taint, horseback, leather or canvas
water tank, leather belts Stitching, hoses, hanging bridge and many more quality
of this fibres shows and recorded historically scientifically and practically for
its better strength and results, that is why flax fibre is strongest fibres in
textile industry by all scientifically test presently.
FLAX IS NOW BRAND FIBRE IN THE WORLD:
Today Flax/Linen fabric is
brand for human society. In India Jay shree textile linen mills unit of late
shri Aditya Vikram Birlaji group of industries Rishra in West Bengal manufactures
versatile materials out of flax yarn such as shirting suiting jacketing under
banner of Linen Garden, canvases, shoe uppers, luggage fabric, industrial
fabric, flame/fire retardant fabric, hoses etc. In other part of India Textile
Industrialist are trying to make more versatile linen fabric such as Indian
Sari Materials, jacketing fabric, bed linen, curtain fabric, upholstery,
furnishing, tapestry, home décor, flooring etc.
Flax is the richest fibres
amongst in textile fibres, due to its versatile tactile qualities as such
crispy, natural lustrous for eyes and uneven natural slubby texture with full smooth
textile surface, not sticky to human skin even though after sweating in summer
and this is all due to after spinning this fibre remain un cylindrical and its
woven textile look alike.
Flax fibre made linen
textile fabric looks and feel totally
different than other textiles fabric, which is natural, washable in any cloth
washing detergent, physical properties and character wise very - verily human,
in textile processing dyeing and printing behave like cotton ramie and jute except
degumming process, In spinning and weaving is little stiffly but not difficult
to use.
If designer knows as above
said mention flax/linen and other textile qualities character wise, then there
is no end in designing or any further development for them.
Beside above said mention
flax qualities, flax and linseed content many minerals and dietary such as
Vitamin C, Vitamin B1, Vitamin B2, Vitamin B3, Vitamin B5, Vitamin B6, Vitamin
B9, Calcium, Magnesium, Phosphorus, Potassium and Zink. Dietary of flax, such
as Fat [saturated, monounsaturated, polyunsaturated] and Protein, which makes this,
is more human. Flax seeds are use in unaani
and ayurveda medicines very effectively, for example eating 10 to 20 gram flax
seeds twice a day which bring down blood pressure, filtration of unwanted
product which develops in human body as cholesterol, works for body sugar as
controlling diabetes due to natural neurotoxic cyanogens glycosides, protect
breast cancers and gives positive energy etc and above said mention qualities
of linen fabric, keeps body cool in summer.
FLAX HARVESTING METHODS:
There is only two ways of
harvesting flax crop in cooler region in the world, one in which farmers use
mechanized equipment methods and other is totally manual with target to gain
maximum fibre length from the crop.
Other part of the world
where farming region is not fully coolest, they apply various techniques to
keep farmland wet and moistures to maintain surrounding cool so they can gain
maximum fibre length but in comparisons to cooler region fibre length is
shorter and strength wise little week.
Farmland for flax crop
should be partly dry, sandy or gravelly and should be just above waterline of the
farmland earth, which is highly suitable for flax crop.
If farmland is little higher side of earth
waterline then develop small, small water ponds in surrounding of flax farmland,
that will maintain waterline of the farmland, which will also gives better flax
crop, this shows that flax crop requires less direct irrigation, and if
farmland is nearer to river belt, that will be the best for farming flax crop
but be sure about, river should have water throughout from sowing flax seeds to
collecting crop.
After sowing seeds in 90
to 110 days flax plant grows fullest and flower shoots and in few days after
they turn in capsules type clustered and seeds are appropriately start
developing and plant begin converting from green to yellow and is fully yellow
not brownish than crop is ready to pullout from earth, means uprooted to gain
maximum fibre length.
To separate flax seeds,
flax crop needs few days drying to process for collecting seeds. Flax seed are removed
by threshing process; this can be done by machine or manually. Threshing can be
done in many ways like collecting all capsules type clustered manually than
thresh by machine or manually and with the help of wind, seeds gets separated
and leftover of seeds capsules clustered
is useful as fertilizer in farmland. Once the seeds are taken from the crop
then is kept for seasoning as retting, if climatic condition of the region is
suitable then in two to three weeks flax crop is retted in the farmland with dew otherwise its takes more
time for retting the crop.
Retting can be done in ponds, steam or in water tank. Ponds retting are
faster than other way of doing retting. Ponds retting takes place in shallow
pool which warm up flax dramatically under sun and this process may take couple
of days or may be few weeks but while retting farmers need to keep a eye
because over retting will damage the fibres.
Steam retting is partly similar to ponds retting but not open like ponds
retting process, in this process bundles of flax should submerged in steam
chamber and in this process steam should supply three to four time in chamber
and this system of retting is little
longer than ponds retting but after retting drying time is less than ponds
retting.
PREPARATION OF FLAX FOR SPINNING:
It is very tedious process
to make flax to linen, firstly flax stalk should remove from its flax leaf and
rest leftover part of flax leaf is ready for further process which converts flax
leaf to flax fibre for further spinning preparatory initial stages for linen
yarn spinning.
PROCESS OF FLAX SCUTCHING:
Firstly flax plant stalk
should be separated and this process is called flax Scutching, which remove
away by rotting inner stalk of retted flax plant and keep intact outer layer of
flax fibres due to this retting process flax fibres is not fully free from flax
coarse straw fibres, which remain with outer layer of flax leaf and while
removing that said flax straw, its break at many places and its length become
shorter but actual flax fibres remain unharmed with outer side.
Beating for Scutching process
flax fibres after retting on wooden platform with wooden round stick or mallet and
then scraped away all straw type thick fibres and this kind of process can be
done by machine or manually, but this said process cannot clean loosen fully
coarse fibres from fine fibres.
It
is also called as breaking process, in these method retted flax bundles are kept
in between the beater of the breaking machine, that has two wooden jaw type blades
that mesh together but jaws knife blade is blunt and that does not harm flax
fibres and this continues process loosen the grip of flax fibres to each others
from its layers and separate the fibres from the gripe of straw type thick
fibres. Scutching should be done very carefully.
Secondly after scutched process
then group of flax leaf fibres cluster clean further with hackling process as
like combing, which act like combing fibres in very, verily harder ways with
enough strength to make flax fibres straight and fully free from flax straw
coarser part.
Thirdly when flax fibres
got Scutched and hackled then it should be combed and carded and once this
processed is completed then its rove form sent to simplex machine for two to
four twist through simplex spinning, than further process of spinning is normal
as wet or dry flax spinning.
Once the flax yarn got
spin on spindle machine then it should be kept in steam chamber with spinning
spindles for heat setting to avoid loop formation, then spun spindles send for final
cone making and flax yarn is ready for weaving and designing.
NATURAL FIBRE:
“PLANT BASED CELLULOSIC
FIBRES”
COTTON – pure cellulose shrub fibre
FLAX – vegetable, bast, herbaceous fibre
JUTE – vegetable Indian family plant bast fibre
RAMIE – lustrous and nettle family fibre “rhea fibre”
HEMP – “cottonization” herbaceous plant
HEMP-PALM – Chinese/Japanese palm leaves
COIR – coconut fibre
RAFFIA – raffia palm fibre
BAMBOO – grass pulp fibre
PINE – pineapple leaf fibre
SISAL – tropical Mexican plant leaf fibre
SOY PROTEIN – tofu manufacturing waste fibre
ABACA – Manila hemp
BHINDI “LADY FINGER” – vegetable fibre
BYSSUS – fine linen or cotton fibre
MODAL - beech tree soft plant fibre and
BANANA – tropical plant tree fibre etc.
ANIMAL BASED PROTEIN
FIBRES:
WOOL – sheep wool
LAMBSWOOL – lamb’s wool
CASHMERE WOOL – Indian Cashmere goat hair
MOHAIR WOOL – North African Angora goat
ALPACA/VICUNA/GUANACO/LLAMA
WOOL – South American Camelid
varieties
ANGORA WOOL – Angora rabbit “wool type hair”
RABBIT – rabbit’s hair
YAK – ox shaggy hair
CAMEL HAIR – Arabian dromedary and northeast Asian Bactrian
Camel hair wool
SILK – mulberry, muga, eri, tropical tasar and oak tasar
silk fibre
CHIENGORA – ladies hair etc.
SYNTHETIC AND SEMISYNTHETIC
“MAN MADE” FIBRES:
RAYON [VISCOSE] – semi synthetic regenerated cellulose fibre
ACETATE - semi synthetic
cellulose fibre
TENCEL – wood pulp semi synthetic cellulose fibre
POLYESTER – polymer, polyethylene, terephthalate fibre
ACRYLIC – acrylonitrile fibre
LUREX – polyamide, polyester fibre
NYLON – polyamide fibre
LYCRA [SPANDEX] – polyurethane fibre
ARAMID – aromatic polyamide fibre
INGEO - polylactide fibre
LUMINEX – optics fibre
LYOCELL – cellulose fibre
OLEFIN – polyethylene, polypropylene fibre
PLA fibre - POLYLACTIDE – polymers, lactic acid fibre etc.
MINERAL BASED FIBRES:
ASBESTOS – asbestos fibre
GLASS/FIBREGLASS – mixed silicates
METALS – gold, silver, copper etc.
TEXTILE FIBRES ARE PUZZLE:
To
learn in detail about Textile Fibers, which presently are available and in use,
is not one man job, because each textile fibre character is differ to others
with its own minute accepting rigidity while using in textile spinning dyeing
printing and processing.
Without
fibres and fibres knowledge, no one can think good textile or make and if you
wants to make good and more good textile, then learn all different textile fibers
tactilely, see physically its softness stiffness smoothness bulkiness length
wise coarser or thickness etc, chemically for other part of textile dyeing, printing,
processing and heat drying or fabric setting
systems and possibilities, for blends of textile, its playable ability and
fibres physical strength along with its tenacity elasticity [curliness/spring
type/spiral or its natural ups and down like slub], Breaking strength with
absorb moisture from nature and its flammability etc.
United
Textile is not complicated, it is as easy as you breath, just learn as above
said mention then you yourself will find always “Textile is your baby” which
helps you for mixing different fibres in spinning, dyeing, printing and
processing and every time you will develop new textile, which will satisfy
human egos. And if you see other way around as above said mention textile
knowledge, one can dye the fibres in different colours and mixed them as you
need in different textile fibers and spin, you will again finds in weaving
different textile which can be redeye for its sheen to form colour glow on
fabric surface and after fabric process setting you will find new look in
textile fabric. Another way one can use fiber dyed yarn in design while weaving
and there is no end in textile designing,
one can print textile surface, on
the same textile fabric for another value addition in textile designing, that
shows textile and textile designing is most enjoyable subject with
its working and living.
The
most promising is that, you are able to solve all textile puzzle of your own,
if you follows the above said mention little knowledge in your practice. As we
all aware of that many things we sees but mostly unseen for us and we knows many things but actually we knows not, that
is why we claim we did something new but what about when you do every day then it
becomes very normal phenomena to solve little, little textile puzzle in your
development and that is a habit not achievement, that’s the way textile
industry grows with every season and time.
Textile
fibres are complex structure and its character in their individual unit is bulge
with another textile fibres, is a mystic and to understand that for making good
and more good textile in versatile feel and look, one need to study their behavior
to solve the puzzle for onwards process of textile.
NATURAL FIBRES: Natural Fibres are those which is treasure criteria of
God creation and that include plants, animals and those which geologically
processed on/in earth and sea, with the permission of almighty God, which he
sees while sitting high on throne of authority and more which human yet to
discover by God permission the above said.
VEGETABLE FIBRES: Vegetable Fibres are generally based of cellulose
often with lignin, for examples cotton, flax, jute, hemp, ramie and sisal etc.
Plant fibres are used in manufacturing paper and textile and its dietary fibres
[leaf stalk and seeds] are very important component for human needs as nutrition,
other useful byproduct development and for medicines to cure human much
complicate illness naturally.
WOOD FIBRES: Wood Fibres are different and distinguished from vegetable
fibres, because its source is tree. Wood fibres forms from ground wood thermomechanical
pulp [TMP] should be bleached or unbleached Kraft [wood Kraft] for as needed
lightness in colour by sulphite to convert byproduct. Kraft [craft] and sulphite
process is used to bring out lignin bonding from original wood structure and this
freeing lignin from wood pulp gelatin, then is collected and wash to make free
of sulphite than dry, fibres is ready to make paper or wood product such as
fibre board and fine quality of lignin is used for textile by same or similar
type process.
ANIMAL FIBERS: Animal Fibres consist in largely proteins, for example
silkworm, wool, hair and chshmere wool, mohair and angora are all protein
fibres, etc
MAN-MADE FIBRES OR SYNTHETIC FIBRES: Man-made Fibres or chemical fibres,
these are fibres whose chemical composition, structure and properties are
significantly modified during its manufacturing process.
Source of synthetic fibres
comes entirely from synthetic materials such as petrochemicals, unlike those
man-made fibres which derived from natural substances as cellulose or protein.
CELLULOSE FIBRES: Cellulose
Fibres are subset of man-made fibres, which is regenerated from natural
cellulose and its sources, is mainly beech trees [large tree with grey bark and
pale wood] and bamboos. Process of getting lignin of these trees pulp is almost
same as mention above wood fibres.
SEMI-SYNTHETIC FIBRES: Semi-synthetic
Fibres are made of from raw materials, which has naturally long chain of
polymer structure chemistry, which modified and partially degraded by chemicals.
Which is in contrast of complete synthetic fibres such as nylon [polyamide] or Dacron
[polyester], which chemist synthesizes from low-molecular weight compounds by
polymerization [chain-building] for its reaction. The first semi-synthetic
fibre is rayon [viscose] viscose rayon fibres are developed as dictate fibre
and triacetate fibre.
METALLIC FIBRE: Metallic fibre are
drawn from ductile metals such as copper, gold, and silver and extruded or
deposited from more brittle, such as nickel, aluminum, iron and stainless steel.
FIBREGLASS: Fiberglass is
made from specific glass, which is optical fibre which comes from after
purified natural quartz. Source of this fibre is silica fibre which got made
out of sodium silicate. And its basalt
fibre is made from melted basalt.
MINERAL FIBRES: Asbestos is
very common mineral fibre.
POLYMER FIBRES: Polymer Fibers
are a subset of man-made fibres, which is based on synthetic chemicals rather
than arising from natural materials by mechanical or physical process. These
fibres are made from:
Polyamide nylon
PET or PBT polyester
Phenol-formaldehyde “PF”
Polyvinyl chloride fibre “PVC”
vinyon
Polyolefin’s “PP and PE”
olefin fibre
Acrylic polyester, pure
polyester PAN fibres
Aromatic polyamide
Polyethylene PE
Polyurethane fibre and
Elastolefin etc
MICROFIBRES: Micro fibres in
textile, is refer to sub-denier fibre [such as polyester drawn to 0.5 denier].
Denier and Detex are two measurements of fibre yield on weight and length. If
fibre density is known then that is fibre diameter, otherwise it is simpler to measure
in micrometer. Because mostly all synthetic fibres are round in cross-section
but specially design fibres can be hollow, oval, star-shaped or trilobal. Synthetic
textile fibres are crimped to provide bulk in textile may be woven or knitted
structure. These fibres surface is dull or bright. Dull surfaces reflect more
light while bright tends to transmit light and make the fibre more transparent.
“As mention underneath title
of textile will be text soon for universal perusal”
COMPOSITE TEXTILE INDUSTRY
WORKING PATTERN:
TEXTILE FIBRES AND
SPINNING:
TEXTILE DYED FIBRES AND
SPINNING:
TEXTILE FIBRES BLENDS AND
SPINNING:
TEXTILE FIBRES AND DIFFERENT
COUNT SPINNING:
TEXTILE DIFFERENT SPINNING
METHODS:
TEXTILE YARN:
TEXTILE CONVERSION FACTOR:
TEXTILE FABRIC SETTING:
TEXTILE CALCULATION
MESUREMENT:
TEXTILE CALCULATION FOR
LENGTH AND WEIGHT:
TEXTILE WOVEN FABRIC
DESIGNING:
TEXTILE DYEING:
TEXTILE PRINTING:
TEXTILE PROCESSING AND
GRADING:
TEXTILE FABRIC MARKET AND
USER:
GIFT WEBSITE: www.gift-india.com
GIFT Email: info@gift-india.com
GIFT Phone No. 079
26463702
Mobile: 09825698294
ADDRESS: White Cross
Building, 15 Patel Society,
Near CII Building,
Panchvati, Gulbaitekra Road,
Ahmedabad– 380006 Gujarat
INDIA.
All copy rights are
reserved by Gandhi Institute of Fashion and Textile (GIFT GANDHI NGOs),
Ahmedabad. By Khalid Ameer Rafique, Ahmedabad, Gujarat, India.
LINEN FIBRE
GIFT WEBSITE: www.gift-india.com
GIFT Email: info@gift-india.com
GIFT Phone No.
079 26463702
Mobile:
09825698294
ADDRESS: White
Cross Building, 15 Patel Society,
Near CII
Building, Panchvati, Gulbaitekra Road,
Ahmedabad– 380006
Gujarat INDIA.