Saturday, January 25, 2014

LINEN FIBRE



LINEN FIBERS:



"TRUTH OF GIFT INSTITUTE AHMEDABAD"

 Industry needs designers who possess updated designing skills along with good communication & presentation skills too. Industry doesn't require those designers who unnecessarily explain & give justification about his/her design work?
POSTING DATE: 29th JANUARY 2014
FLAX AND LINEN
FLAX: CROP AND CULTIVATION
FLAX: SEEDS “LINSEEDS”
FLAX: CROP IN METRIC TONS IN WORLDS
FLAX: CROP FOR TEXTILE, PAPER, FOOD AND MEDICINE
FLAX: CROP HARVESTING METHODS
FLAX: PREPARATION FOR SPINNING
FLAX LINEN AND FABRIC DESIGNING
FLAX TO LINEN
Flax is a Fibre of Textile and Paper making, good for Medicine and Food Industry too. Flax cultivation defines truly and historically for cooler regions of the World. If trying to cultivate in little hotter or in little hot humid area, then flax crop will grow, but not fullest its normal fibre length which is normally 16 to 25 inch and fibre strength will reduce very low for flax fibres yarn wet spinning, but below 10 tow dry spinning linen count can be made out of this flax fibres with less strength.

Best Flax Fibres grows in cooler place with very little moisture and humid atmosphere farmland in the world and with this type of flax fibre, one can wet spines above 70s lea linen single count with fullest strength. If one plies 4 time, then this 70s lea single linen count strength becomes more than metal fibres, that is why flax/linen yarn breaking strength is highest in comparisons to all textile fibers at presents, and it will remain till then, when new textile natural fibre discover with better qualities than flax from this spreads out bounteous earth paradise by The Almighty God, which is useful in textile or same type of purpose in appropriate industry in the world.

Flax plant grows like a singular unit cluster of many protected covers in and out to built strength for its fibres plant, which is Bast [bast kind of bass] - Bark - Stalks - stem type outer leaf fibre like Jute and Ramie and its seed are known as linseed and its oil is commonly use in medicines, fine arts, varnish, linoleum, printing ink and many other uses in our human society today.
Flax Fibre has its own natural ups and downs that gives little variation in flax yarn like thin and thick places in between smooth surface, which is natural and spacing in between with smooth surface ups and downs is at random, as like SLUB but very, verily smooth in overall its continuous length, due to this quality of flax fibre in weaving textile surface is not fully flat and that is why is not sticky to the human skin, crispy and naturally lustrous due to un even textile surface from there light reflect more.

Flax fibres has to be segregate before it’s any use as above said mention because flax fibres are vegetable fibre which grows like a singular unit cluster of many different protected cover to built strength for its fibres plant, like bast [bass], bark, stalks, stem type leaf fibres, which naturally grows in single shrub with five leaf, as like Indian elephant grass, with many thick and thin variation in plant growth. That means after segregation fineness of the flax fibres from coarser fibres with better length is very good for finest lea linen count wet spinning, this manual segregation of flax fibres for fine lea count spinning, gives better earning  as like wool trade where  Sheep/Lame Wool while clipping  they segregate, systematically  for better worsted yarn spinning because different body parts wool gives different micron, which means fineness of the fibre is higher side in micron, that gives in spinning fine worsted count [higher number of count] for light weight worsted fabric and same style is for flax, these all segregation are important and firstly is done while collecting the crop and again before taking in for actual flax yarn spinning, which helps in production efficiency and quality of textile materials.

FLAX CROP PROUCTION WORLD WIDE:
Flax crop for industry purpose grows in part of Egypt Flax/Linen   Linseed crop production approximately metric tons is 175000, China Flax/Linen Linseed crop production approximately metric tons is 350000, Georgia Flax/Linen  Linseed crop production approximately metric tons is 35000, North America USA Flax/Linen  Linseed crop production approximately metric tons is 80000, Belgium Flax/Linen  Linseed crop production approximately metric tons is 70000, Russia Flax/Linen  Linseed crop production approximately metric tons is235000, United Kingdom UK Flax/Linen  Linseed crop production approximately metric tons is 75000, Ethiopia Flax/Linen  Linseed crop production approximately metric tons is 70000, Kazakhstan Flax/Linen  Linseed crop production approximately metric tons is 65000, Ukraine Flax/Linen  Linseed crop production approximately metric tons is 52000, Argentina Flax/Linen  Linseed crop production approximately metric tons is 34000, Canada Flax/Linen  Linseed crop production approximately metric tons is 400000, New Zealand Flax/Linen in farming is known with different name and there Linseed crop production approximately metric tons is 40000, before partition of India in along with Northern Hills was higher than present situation of Flax/Linen  Linseed crop production approximately metric tons is 160000 and other part of Europe and world, which is not mention above, there Flax/Linen  Linseed crop production approximately metric tons is 100000, approximately today in beginning of year JANUARY 2014.  

FLAX LINEN FIBRES AND FABRIC HISTORY:                                         
Flax Linen Fabric is not new, is oldest textile and paper industry fibre. Historically found in Dzudzuana cave dyed flax fibres of prehistoric Georgia dated 30000 years ago and ancient Egyptian times, for example in Egypt they covered around mummies linen un degummed fabric, in Korea still is used to cover human body for its last rituals, because with time or in earth does not get destroy easily and insect moths and white ants avoid eating due to gums and partly absorbed moisture from nature to maintain its gum strength, Artist use Linen canvas without degummed.

FLAX YARN OTHER USAGE HISTORICALLY:
Flax yarn was used before 1980s for football, volleyball, basketball, cricket ball, hockey ball, shoes, luggage bags, pocket purse, lady purse, taint, horseback, leather or canvas water tank, leather belts Stitching, hoses, hanging bridge and many more quality of this fibres shows and recorded historically scientifically and practically for its better strength and results, that is why flax fibre is strongest fibres in textile industry by all scientifically test presently.

FLAX IS NOW BRAND FIBRE IN THE WORLD:
Today Flax/Linen fabric is brand for human society. In India Jay shree textile linen mills unit of late shri Aditya Vikram Birlaji group of industries Rishra in West Bengal manufactures versatile materials out of flax yarn such as shirting suiting jacketing under banner of Linen Garden, canvases, shoe uppers, luggage fabric, industrial fabric, flame/fire retardant fabric, hoses etc. In other part of India Textile Industrialist are trying to make more versatile linen fabric such as Indian Sari Materials, jacketing fabric, bed linen, curtain fabric, upholstery, furnishing, tapestry, home décor, flooring etc.
Flax is the richest fibres amongst in textile fibres, due to its versatile tactile qualities as such crispy, natural lustrous for eyes and uneven natural slubby texture with full smooth textile surface, not sticky to human skin even though after sweating in summer and this is all due to after spinning this fibre remain un cylindrical and its woven textile look alike.
Flax fibre made linen textile fabric looks  and feel totally different than other textiles fabric, which is natural, washable in any cloth washing detergent, physical properties and character wise very - verily human, in textile processing dyeing and printing behave like cotton ramie and jute except degumming process, In spinning and weaving is little stiffly but not difficult to use.
If designer knows as above said mention flax/linen and other textile qualities character wise, then there is no end in designing or any further development for them.
Beside above said mention flax qualities, flax and linseed content many minerals and dietary such as Vitamin C, Vitamin B1, Vitamin B2, Vitamin B3, Vitamin B5, Vitamin B6, Vitamin B9, Calcium, Magnesium, Phosphorus, Potassium and Zink. Dietary of flax, such as Fat [saturated, monounsaturated, polyunsaturated] and Protein, which makes this, is more human.  Flax seeds are use in unaani and ayurveda medicines very effectively, for example eating 10 to 20 gram flax seeds twice a day which bring down blood pressure, filtration of unwanted product which develops in human body as cholesterol, works for body sugar as controlling diabetes due to natural neurotoxic cyanogens glycosides, protect breast cancers and gives positive energy etc and above said mention qualities of linen fabric, keeps body cool in summer. 

FLAX HARVESTING METHODS:
There is only two ways of harvesting flax crop in cooler region in the world, one in which farmers use mechanized equipment methods and other is totally manual with target to gain maximum fibre length from the crop.
Other part of the world where farming region is not fully coolest, they apply various techniques to keep farmland wet and moistures to maintain surrounding cool so they can gain maximum fibre length but in comparisons to cooler region fibre length is shorter and strength wise little week.
Farmland for flax crop should be partly dry, sandy or gravelly and should be just above waterline of the farmland earth, which is highly suitable for flax crop.
 If farmland is little higher side of earth waterline then develop small, small water ponds in surrounding of flax farmland, that will maintain waterline of the farmland, which will also gives better flax crop, this shows that flax crop requires less direct irrigation, and if farmland is nearer to river belt, that will be the best for farming flax crop but be sure about, river should have water throughout from sowing flax seeds to collecting crop.
After sowing seeds in 90 to 110 days flax plant grows fullest and flower shoots and in few days after they turn in capsules type clustered and seeds are appropriately start developing and plant begin converting from green to yellow and is fully yellow not brownish than crop is ready to pullout from earth, means uprooted to gain maximum fibre length.
To separate flax seeds, flax crop needs few days drying to process for collecting seeds. Flax seed are removed by threshing process; this can be done by machine or manually. Threshing can be done in many ways like collecting all capsules type clustered manually than thresh by machine or manually and with the help of wind, seeds gets separated and leftover of  seeds capsules clustered is useful as fertilizer in farmland. Once the seeds are taken from the crop then is kept for seasoning as retting, if climatic condition of the region is suitable then in two to three weeks flax crop is retted in the farmland with dew otherwise its takes more time for retting the crop.
Retting can be done in ponds, steam or in water tank. Ponds retting are faster than other way of doing retting. Ponds retting takes place in shallow pool which warm up flax dramatically under sun and this process may take couple of days or may be few weeks but while retting farmers need to keep a eye because over retting will damage the fibres.
Steam retting is partly similar to ponds retting but not open like ponds retting process, in this process bundles of flax should submerged in steam chamber and in this process steam should supply three to four time in chamber and  this system of retting is little longer than ponds retting but after retting drying time is less than ponds retting.     

PREPARATION OF FLAX FOR SPINNING:
It is very tedious process to make flax to linen, firstly flax stalk should remove from its flax leaf and rest leftover part of flax leaf is ready for further process which converts flax leaf to flax fibre for further spinning preparatory initial stages for linen yarn spinning.

PROCESS OF FLAX SCUTCHING:
Firstly flax plant stalk should be separated and this process is called flax Scutching, which remove away by rotting inner stalk of retted flax plant and keep intact outer layer of flax fibres due to this retting process flax fibres is not fully free from flax coarse straw fibres, which remain with outer layer of flax leaf and while removing that said flax straw, its break at many places and its length become shorter but actual flax fibres remain unharmed with outer side.
Beating for Scutching process flax fibres after retting on wooden platform with wooden round stick or mallet and then scraped away all straw type thick fibres and this kind of process can be done by machine or manually, but this said process cannot clean loosen fully coarse fibres from fine fibres.
It is also called as breaking process, in these method retted flax bundles are kept in between the beater of the breaking machine, that has two wooden jaw type blades that mesh together but jaws knife blade is blunt and that does not harm flax fibres and this continues process loosen the grip of flax fibres to each others from its layers and separate the fibres from the gripe of straw type thick fibres. Scutching should be done very carefully.
Secondly after scutched process then group of flax leaf fibres cluster clean further with hackling process as like combing, which act like combing fibres in very, verily harder ways with enough strength to make flax fibres straight and fully free from flax straw coarser part.
Thirdly when flax fibres got Scutched and hackled then it should be combed and carded and once this processed is completed then its rove form sent to simplex machine for two to four twist through simplex spinning, than further process of spinning is normal as wet or dry flax spinning.

Once the flax yarn got spin on spindle machine then it should be kept in steam chamber with spinning spindles for heat setting to avoid loop formation, then spun spindles send for final cone making and flax yarn is ready for weaving and designing. 




NATURAL FIBRE:
“PLANT BASED CELLULOSIC FIBRES”
COTTON – pure cellulose shrub fibre
FLAX – vegetable, bast, herbaceous fibre
JUTE – vegetable Indian family plant bast fibre
RAMIE – lustrous and nettle family fibre “rhea fibre”
HEMP – “cottonization” herbaceous plant
HEMP-PALM – Chinese/Japanese palm leaves
COIR – coconut fibre
RAFFIA – raffia palm fibre
BAMBOO – grass pulp fibre
PINE – pineapple leaf fibre
SISAL – tropical Mexican plant leaf fibre
SOY PROTEIN – tofu manufacturing waste fibre
ABACA – Manila hemp                              
BHINDI “LADY FINGER” – vegetable fibre
BYSSUS – fine linen or cotton fibre
MODAL - beech tree soft plant fibre and
BANANA – tropical plant tree fibre etc.
ANIMAL BASED PROTEIN FIBRES:
WOOL – sheep wool                                              
LAMBSWOOL – lamb’s wool
CASHMERE WOOL – Indian Cashmere goat hair
MOHAIR WOOL – North African Angora goat
ALPACA/VICUNA/GUANACO/LLAMA WOOL – South American Camelid varieties
ANGORA WOOL – Angora rabbit “wool type hair”
RABBIT – rabbit’s hair
YAK – ox shaggy hair
CAMEL HAIR – Arabian dromedary and northeast Asian Bactrian Camel hair wool
SILK – mulberry, muga, eri, tropical tasar and oak tasar silk fibre
CHIENGORA – ladies hair etc.
SYNTHETIC AND SEMISYNTHETIC
“MAN MADE” FIBRES:
RAYON [VISCOSE] – semi synthetic regenerated cellulose fibre
ACETATE - semi synthetic cellulose fibre                                                       
TENCEL – wood pulp semi synthetic cellulose fibre
POLYESTER – polymer, polyethylene, terephthalate fibre
ACRYLIC – acrylonitrile fibre
LUREX – polyamide, polyester fibre
NYLON – polyamide fibre
LYCRA [SPANDEX] – polyurethane fibre
ARAMID – aromatic polyamide fibre
INGEO - polylactide fibre
LUMINEX – optics fibre
LYOCELL – cellulose fibre
OLEFIN – polyethylene, polypropylene fibre
PLA fibre - POLYLACTIDE – polymers, lactic acid fibre etc.
MINERAL BASED FIBRES:
ASBESTOS – asbestos fibre                                    
GLASS/FIBREGLASS – mixed silicates
METALS – gold, silver, copper etc.

TEXTILE FIBRES ARE PUZZLE:
To learn in detail about Textile Fibers, which presently are available and in use, is not one man job, because each textile fibre character is differ to others with its own minute accepting rigidity while using in textile spinning dyeing printing and processing.

Without fibres and fibres knowledge, no one can think good textile or make and if you wants to make good and more good textile, then learn all different textile fibers tactilely, see physically its softness stiffness smoothness bulkiness length wise coarser or thickness etc,   chemically for other part of textile dyeing, printing,  processing and heat drying or fabric setting systems and possibilities, for blends of textile, its playable ability and fibres physical strength along with its tenacity elasticity [curliness/spring type/spiral or its natural ups and down like slub], Breaking strength with absorb moisture from nature and its flammability etc.
United Textile is not complicated, it is as easy as you breath, just learn as above said mention then you yourself will find always “Textile is your baby” which helps you for mixing different fibres in spinning, dyeing, printing and processing and every time you will develop new textile, which will satisfy human egos. And if you see other way around as above said mention textile knowledge, one can dye the fibres in different colours and mixed them as you need in different textile fibers and spin, you will again finds in weaving different textile which can be redeye for its sheen to form colour glow on fabric surface and after fabric process setting you will find new look in textile fabric. Another way one can use fiber dyed yarn in design while weaving and there is  no end in textile designing, one can print  textile surface, on the same textile fabric for another value addition in textile designing, that shows textile and textile designing is most enjoyable subject with its working and living.     
The most promising is that, you are able to solve all textile puzzle of your own, if you follows the above said mention little knowledge in your practice. As we all aware of that many things we sees but mostly unseen for us and   we knows many things but actually we knows not, that is why we claim we did something new but what about when you do every day then it becomes very normal phenomena to solve little, little textile puzzle in your development and that is a habit not achievement, that’s the way textile industry grows with every season and time. 
Textile fibres are complex structure and its character in their individual unit is bulge with another textile fibres, is a mystic and to understand that for making good and more good textile in versatile feel and look, one need to study their behavior to solve the puzzle for onwards process of textile.
NATURAL FIBRES: Natural Fibres are those which is treasure criteria of God creation and that include plants, animals and those which geologically processed on/in earth and sea, with the permission of almighty God, which he sees while sitting high on throne of authority and more which human yet to discover by God permission the above said.
VEGETABLE FIBRES: Vegetable Fibres are generally based of cellulose often with lignin, for examples cotton, flax, jute, hemp, ramie and sisal etc. Plant fibres are used in manufacturing paper and textile and its dietary fibres [leaf stalk and seeds] are very important component for human needs as nutrition, other useful byproduct development and for medicines to cure human much complicate illness naturally.
WOOD FIBRES: Wood Fibres are different and distinguished from vegetable fibres, because its source is tree. Wood fibres forms from ground wood thermomechanical pulp [TMP] should be bleached or unbleached Kraft [wood Kraft] for as needed lightness in colour by sulphite to convert byproduct. Kraft [craft] and sulphite process is used to bring out lignin bonding from original wood structure and this freeing lignin from wood pulp gelatin, then is collected and wash to make free of sulphite than dry, fibres is ready to make paper or wood product such as fibre board and fine quality of lignin is used for textile by same or similar type process.  
ANIMAL FIBERS: Animal Fibres consist in largely proteins, for example silkworm, wool, hair and chshmere wool, mohair and angora are all protein fibres, etc
MAN-MADE FIBRES OR SYNTHETIC FIBRES: Man-made Fibres or chemical fibres, these are fibres whose chemical composition, structure and properties are significantly modified during its manufacturing process.
Source of synthetic fibres comes entirely from synthetic materials such as petrochemicals, unlike those man-made fibres which derived from natural substances as cellulose or protein.
CELLULOSE FIBRES: Cellulose Fibres are subset of man-made fibres, which is regenerated from natural cellulose and its sources, is mainly beech trees [large tree with grey bark and pale wood] and bamboos. Process of getting lignin of these trees pulp is almost same as mention above wood fibres.
SEMI-SYNTHETIC FIBRES: Semi-synthetic Fibres are made of from raw materials, which has naturally long chain of polymer structure chemistry, which modified and partially degraded by chemicals. Which is in contrast of complete synthetic fibres such as nylon [polyamide] or Dacron [polyester], which chemist synthesizes from low-molecular weight compounds by polymerization [chain-building] for its reaction. The first semi-synthetic fibre is rayon [viscose] viscose rayon fibres are developed as dictate fibre and triacetate fibre.
METALLIC FIBRE: Metallic fibre are drawn from ductile metals such as copper, gold, and silver and extruded or deposited from more brittle, such as nickel, aluminum, iron and stainless steel.
FIBREGLASS: Fiberglass is made from specific glass, which is optical fibre which comes from after purified natural quartz. Source of this fibre is silica fibre which got made out of sodium silicate.  And its basalt fibre is made from melted basalt.
MINERAL FIBRES: Asbestos is very common mineral fibre.
POLYMER FIBRES: Polymer Fibers are a subset of man-made fibres, which is based on synthetic chemicals rather than arising from natural materials by mechanical or physical process. These fibres are made from:
Polyamide nylon
PET or PBT polyester
Phenol-formaldehyde “PF”
Polyvinyl chloride fibre “PVC” vinyon
Polyolefin’s “PP and PE” olefin fibre
Acrylic polyester, pure polyester PAN fibres
Aromatic polyamide
Polyethylene PE
Polyurethane fibre and
Elastolefin etc
MICROFIBRES: Micro fibres in textile, is refer to sub-denier fibre [such as polyester drawn to 0.5 denier]. Denier and Detex are two measurements of fibre yield on weight and length. If fibre density is known then that is fibre diameter, otherwise it is simpler to measure in micrometer. Because mostly all synthetic fibres are round in cross-section but specially design fibres can be hollow, oval, star-shaped or trilobal. Synthetic textile fibres are crimped to provide bulk in textile may be woven or knitted structure. These fibres surface is dull or bright. Dull surfaces reflect more light while bright tends to transmit light and make the fibre more transparent.
“As mention underneath title of textile will be text soon for universal perusal”
COMPOSITE TEXTILE INDUSTRY WORKING PATTERN:
TEXTILE FIBRES AND SPINNING:
TEXTILE DYED FIBRES AND SPINNING:
TEXTILE FIBRES BLENDS AND SPINNING:
TEXTILE FIBRES AND DIFFERENT COUNT SPINNING:
TEXTILE DIFFERENT SPINNING METHODS:
TEXTILE YARN:
TEXTILE CONVERSION FACTOR:
TEXTILE FABRIC SETTING:
TEXTILE CALCULATION MESUREMENT:
TEXTILE CALCULATION FOR LENGTH AND WEIGHT:
TEXTILE WOVEN FABRIC DESIGNING:
TEXTILE DYEING:
TEXTILE PRINTING:
TEXTILE PROCESSING AND GRADING:
TEXTILE FABRIC MARKET AND USER:

GIFT WEBSITE: www.gift-india.com   
GIFT Email: info@gift-india.com   
                      giftinst@gmail.com
                      profkhalidrafique@gmail.com

GIFT Phone No. 079 26463702
Mobile: 09825698294
ADDRESS: White Cross Building, 15 Patel Society,
Near CII Building, Panchvati, Gulbaitekra Road,
Ahmedabad– 380006 Gujarat INDIA.

All copy rights are reserved by Gandhi Institute of Fashion and Textile (GIFT GANDHI NGOs), Ahmedabad. By Khalid Ameer Rafique, Ahmedabad, Gujarat, India.










LINEN FIBRE

GIFT WEBSITE: www.gift-india.com   

GIFT Email: info@gift-india.com   
                     giftinst@gmail.com
                    profkhalidrafique@gmail.com
GIFT Phone No. 079 26463702
Mobile: 09825698294
ADDRESS: White Cross Building, 15 Patel Society,
Near CII Building, Panchvati, Gulbaitekra Road,

Ahmedabad– 380006 Gujarat INDIA.